This Iberian pendant was made at the height of the Baroque era, around 1780. Its airy filigree is worked in 18k gold, almost certainly mined in colonial Brazil, and set with both rose- and table-cut diamonds. By the late 18th century, Brazilian stones had begun to replace the fabled diamonds of India, crossing the same Atlantic routes as the gold that frames them here. Pieces like this were worn in candlelit salons and grand cathedrals, facets flickering in low light. They reflect an age when Iberia (now Spain and Portugal) were competing with England and Holland to grab as much (land, resources, and people) as they could, as far away as their ships could take them. The idea of "Globalism" was in its infancy, and ideas spread as fast as spices and diseases did. The openwork on these jewels were said to be inspired by lacy Islamic/Moorish architecture.
Aboutthe
GeorgianEra
1714 — 1837
As imperialist war raged in the Americas, Caribbean, Australia, and beyond, the jewelry industry benefited: colored gems from all over the empire became newly available. A mix of artistic influences from around Europe contributed to the feminine, glittering jewels of the era. Dense, ornate Baroque motifs from Italy showed up in Georgian jewelry, as did French Rococo’s undulating flora and fauna. Neoclassical style made use of Greek and Roman motifs, which were newly popular due to the recently uncovered ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Lapidary methods improved: the dome-shaped rose cut was popular, as was the “old mine cut,” a very early iteration of today’s round brilliant cut.
The boat-shaped marquise diamond cut was developed around this time, supposedly to imitate the smile of Louis XV’s mistress, the marquise de Pompadour. Paste — an imitation gemstone made from leaded glass — was newly developed in the 18th century, and set into jewelry with the same creativity and care as its more precious counterparts. Real and imitation gems were almost always set in closed-backed settings, lined on the underside with thin sheets of foil to enhance the color of the stone and highlight it's sparkle. This makes Georgian rings tough for modern women to wear, especially on an everyday basis: genteel, jewelry-owning ladies of the 18th century were not famous for working with their hands like we are. Nor did they wash their hands as much as we do. Water will virtually ruin a foiled setting, so take special care with your Georgian ring. Very little jewelry from this period is still in circulation, and it's very difficult to repair.