At first glance, this looks like a simple gold fob. Hidden inside, however, is a Stanhope: a tiny optical viewer containing a microscopic photograph that can only be seen by peering through the lens. Popular from the late nineteenth into the early twentieth century, Stanhopes were marvels of Victorian engineering, and people loved them. The dealer who sold this to me said the image is of the Rajputana Regiment, one of the oldest infantry regiments of the British Indian Army. Founded in 1775 and still serving today in the Indian Army, the regiment earned a formidable reputation during the colonial period and in both World Wars. Souvenir Stanhopes like this were often purchased by soldiers and their families as portable keepsakes of military service. This one is made in solid gold.
thedetails
- Materials
14k gold (tests), glass stanhope lens, new 14k gold chain
- Age
c. 1900
- Condition
Very good - minor discoloration and surface wear commensurate with age and use
- Size
5/8" x 3/8" stanhope, 18" chain
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Aboutthe
EdwardianEra
1900 — 1910
The jewelry tended toward airy lightness, often in the form of lacy filigree. The world was changing rapidly, but lots of the jewelry still reflected the Victorian ideals of decorum and femininity. Ancient Roman and Greek influences remained popular. “White” jewelry became popular as plentiful deposits of platinum were discovered in Russia and improved smelting technology made it possible for jewelers to work in the noble metal. Platinum was seldom used by jewelers in earlier years owing both to its scarcity and high melting point. The jewelry trade took advantage of its rigid strength to create opulent openwork settings for increasingly brilliant diamonds. The old European cut was perfected, rounder and squatter than old mine. This took stone-cutting one step closer to the mathematically perfect round brilliant cut, which is the most popular diamond cut today. The now-iconic square Asscher cut was patented in 1902. Hot on the heels of platinum, the alloy mixture that produces white gold was formulated and patented in 1915 in New York City. With Europe in the grip of WW1, the American jewelry industry was poised to become a world leader and innovator.
please note:Terms of Sale
Antiques can be returned unworn and in original condition within 10 days of delivery for an exchange or refund minus the cost of shipping. Once a piece has been altered, including ring re-sizing, it is FINAL SALE.