Reverse-carved crystal—also known as Essex crystal—was a beloved technique in late Victorian and Edwardian jewelry. Artists meticulously carved an image into the back of a domed rock crystal, then painted it in reverse, creating a delicate three-dimensional illusion when viewed from the front. When set against a luminous mother-of-pearl backing, the effect is ethereal—like a miniature scene suspended in light. In Edwardian floriography, the daisy symbolized innocence, loyalty, and new beginnings. Linked to childhood, purity, and enduring love, it was a meaningful emblem, especially in sentimental jewelry like this.
thedetails
- Materials
14k gold (tests), rock crystal, mother of pearl, new 14k gold chain
- Age
c. 1900
- Condition
Very good - engraved “M. Zell“
- Size
5/8" length including the bale, 1/2" diameter, 18" chain
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Aboutthe
EdwardianEra
1900 — 1910
The jewelry tended toward airy lightness, often in the form of lacy filigree. The world was changing rapidly, but lots of the jewelry still reflected the Victorian ideals of decorum and femininity. Ancient Roman and Greek influences remained popular. “White” jewelry became popular as plentiful deposits of platinum were discovered in Russia and improved smelting technology made it possible for jewelers to work in the noble metal. Platinum was seldom used by jewelers in earlier years owing both to its scarcity and high melting point. The jewelry trade took advantage of its rigid strength to create opulent openwork settings for increasingly brilliant diamonds. The old European cut was perfected, rounder and squatter than old mine. This took stone-cutting one step closer to the mathematically perfect round brilliant cut, which is the most popular diamond cut today. The now-iconic square Asscher cut was patented in 1902. Hot on the heels of platinum, the alloy mixture that produces white gold was formulated and patented in 1915 in New York City. With Europe in the grip of WW1, the American jewelry industry was poised to become a world leader and innovator.
please note:Terms of Sale
Antiques can be returned unworn and in original condition within 10 days of delivery for an exchange or refund minus the cost of shipping. Once a piece has been altered, including ring re-sizing, it is FINAL SALE.
