The “girandole” style takes its name from ornate, branched candelabra - each tiered drop of stones echoing the way candlelight cascaded from gilt arms. In jewelry, this design translated into large, multi-drop earrings that glittered with movement, subtly sparkly in candlelit rooms. These earrings are set with deep purple pastes, imitating amethyst. In the late 18th century, natural amethysts would have come from sources in Brazil (after Portuguese colonization opened trade routes) and from older European deposits, particularly in Russia’s Ural Mountains. Paste substitutes, however, were widely celebrated in Georgian fashion: they offered rich color and brilliance at a fraction of the cost, making grand styles accessible to a broader range of wearers. The small loops at the top are known as "wig hooks" and would have been attached to a towering wig, or a ribbon would have been looped through the hooks and run over the head under the wig.
thedetails
- Materials
gilt base metal, round and pear-shaped pastes
- Age
c. 1780
- Condition
Very good
- Size
2 1/8" length, 1 1/2" at the widest point
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Aboutthe
GeorgianEra
1714 — 1837
As imperialist war raged in the Americas, Caribbean, Australia, and beyond, the jewelry industry benefited: colored gems from all over the empire became newly available. A mix of artistic influences from around Europe contributed to the feminine, glittering jewels of the era. Dense, ornate Baroque motifs from Italy showed up in Georgian jewelry, as did French Rococo’s undulating flora and fauna. Neoclassical style made use of Greek and Roman motifs, which were newly popular due to the recently uncovered ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Lapidary methods improved: the dome-shaped rose cut was popular, as was the “old mine cut,” a very early iteration of today’s round brilliant cut.
The boat-shaped marquise diamond cut was developed around this time, supposedly to imitate the smile of Louis XV’s mistress, the marquise de Pompadour. Paste — an imitation gemstone made from leaded glass — was newly developed in the 18th century, and set into jewelry with the same creativity and care as its more precious counterparts. Real and imitation gems were almost always set in closed-backed settings, lined on the underside with thin sheets of foil to enhance the color of the stone and highlight it's sparkle. This makes Georgian rings tough for modern women to wear, especially on an everyday basis: genteel, jewelry-owning ladies of the 18th century were not famous for working with their hands like we are. Nor did they wash their hands as much as we do. Water will virtually ruin a foiled setting, so take special care with your Georgian ring. Very little jewelry from this period is still in circulation, and it's very difficult to repair.
please note:Terms of Sale
Antiques can be returned unworn and in original condition within 10 days of delivery for an exchange or refund minus the cost of shipping. Once a piece has been altered, including ring re-sizing, it is FINAL SALE.