This greenish, mottled turquoise oval differs from the small, uniform cabochons more typical of early 19th-century jewelry. In earlier Georgian and Victorian work, turquoise was used as a decorative accent, set in rows or pavé and carefully calibrated to match, dissolving into pattern rather than standing alone. Much of this earlier turquoise came from Persia or the Near East and was prized for its even blue color. By the late Victorian period, tastes shifted toward larger stones valued for their individuality. Increased access to American turquoise from Nevada and the Southwest, along with a growing interest in stones as natural objects of beauty, allowed a single weird cabochon to take center stage. The diamond halo frames the turquoise like a picture, emphasizing the stone as the focus.
thedetails
- Materials
14k gold (tests), silver, 34 1.5mm old cut diamonds, 12.8mm x 8.5mm oval cabochon turquoise
- Age
c. 1890
- Condition
Very good - surface wear commensurate with age and use
- Size
7.75, can be resized; 3/4" x 1/2" head, 1/16" shank
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Aboutthe
VictorianEra
1837 — 1901
The Victorians were avid consumers and novelty-seekers, especially when it came to fashion, and numerous fads came and went throughout the 19th century. In jewelry, whatever fashion choices Queen V. made reverberated throughout the kingdom. The Romantic period reflected the queen’s legendary love for her husband, Albert.
Jewelry from this period featured joyful designs like flowers, hearts, and birds, all which often had symbolic meaning. The queen’s betrothal ring was made in the shape of a snake, which stood for love, fidelity, and eternity. The exuberant tone shifted after Prince Albert passed away in 1861, marking the beginning of the Grand Period. Black jewelry became de rigeur as the Queen and her subjects entered “mourning,” which at the time represented not just an emotional state, as we conceive of it today, but a specific manner of conduct and dress. She wore the color black for the remainder of her life, and we see lots of black onyx, enamel, jet, and gutta percha in the jewelry from this time. Finally, during the late Victorian period, which transitioned along with a rapidly changing world into the “Aesthetic Movement”, there was a return to organic and whimsical motifs: serpents, crescent moons, animals, and Japonaisserie designed for the more liberated “Gibson Girl”. During the second half of the 19th century, America entered the global jewelry market, with Tiffany and Co. leading the way. Lapidaries continued to perfect their techniques, and the old European cut emerged toward the end of the Victorian period. The discovery of rich diamond mines in South Africa made the colorless stones more accessible than ever before.
please note:Terms of Sale
Antiques can be returned unworn and in original condition within 10 days of delivery for an exchange or refund minus the cost of shipping. Once a piece has been altered, including ring re-sizing, it is FINAL SALE.
