During what’s known as the “Grand Period” of the Victorian era - 1860-1885 - architectural discoveries around the world fueled a passion for ancient history. Long-lost civilizations were an unbearably romantic idea to many 19th century Westerners. The European jewelry market was ready for a period of ancient revival styles: Greek, Egyptian, Etruscan. This last one is what we’re looking at here. The Etruscan civilization flourished in central Italy between the 8th and 3rd century BCE. Before much of its culture was either obliterated or assimilated into that of its conqueror, Rome, they produced some OUTSTANDING jewelry that looked sort of like this. Victorian jewelers actually struggled to understand how the Etruscans had produced such fine texture and wirework and spent lots of time trying to reverse-engineer the process, with varying results. Here, a very Victorian half hoop style ring set with rubies and embellished with Etruscan-esque granulation and twisted wire.
thedetails
- Materials
18k gold (tests), 5 rubies (2mm - 2.5mm)
- Age
c. 1870
- Condition
Very good - slight rubbing along the table facets; engraving along the hoop is worn
- Size
6.75, can be resized; 4.8mm head, 1.7mm shank
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Aboutthe
VictorianEra
1837 — 1901
The Victorians were avid consumers and novelty-seekers, especially when it came to fashion, and numerous fads came and went throughout the 19th century. In jewelry, whatever fashion choices Queen V. made reverberated throughout the kingdom. The Romantic period reflected the queen’s legendary love for her husband, Albert.
Jewelry from this period featured joyful designs like flowers, hearts, and birds, all which often had symbolic meaning. The queen’s betrothal ring was made in the shape of a snake, which stood for love, fidelity, and eternity. The exuberant tone shifted after Prince Albert passed away in 1861, marking the beginning of the Grand Period. Black jewelry became de rigeur as the Queen and her subjects entered “mourning,” which at the time represented not just an emotional state, as we conceive of it today, but a specific manner of conduct and dress. She wore the color black for the remainder of her life, and we see lots of black onyx, enamel, jet, and gutta percha in the jewelry from this time. Finally, during the late Victorian period, which transitioned along with a rapidly changing world into the “Aesthetic Movement”, there was a return to organic and whimsical motifs: serpents, crescent moons, animals, and Japonaisserie designed for the more liberated “Gibson Girl”. During the second half of the 19th century, America entered the global jewelry market, with Tiffany and Co. leading the way. Lapidaries continued to perfect their techniques, and the old European cut emerged toward the end of the Victorian period. The discovery of rich diamond mines in South Africa made the colorless stones more accessible than ever before.
please note:Terms of Sale
Antiques can be returned unworn and in original condition within 10 days of delivery for an exchange or refund minus the cost of shipping. Once a piece has been altered, including ring re-sizing, it is FINAL SALE.