THIS EXTRAORDINARY mourning ring was made in 1860, a time when it was customary to leave money in your will to fund memorial jewelry. These rings were distributed to family and friends, who wore them publicly as a sign of grief and devotion. Set with an impressive sixteen rose-cut diamonds, this piece would have been an expensive commission— a testament to the wealth of the deceased. The swivel design conceals a lock of hair beneath a glass lens, but you could spin it around to show off the black enamel IN MEMORY OF disc. Your choice - do you want to show how much you loved "MA", who “Died 13 March 1860 Aged 42”, or do you want to show off to the world the sparkly proof that your friend was rich AF? The ring is in near-perfect condition; it was rarely taken out of its original leather case.
thedetails
- Materials
18k gold (marked), black enamel, 16 2mm rose cut diamonds, glass lens, hair, leatherette box
- Age
dated 1860
- Condition
Very good - minor surface wear commensurate with age and use
- Size
5.5, cannot be resized; 11.7mm head, 2mm shank
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Aboutthe
VictorianEra
1837 — 1901
The Victorians were avid consumers and novelty-seekers, especially when it came to fashion, and numerous fads came and went throughout the 19th century. In jewelry, whatever fashion choices Queen V. made reverberated throughout the kingdom. The Romantic period reflected the queen’s legendary love for her husband, Albert.
Jewelry from this period featured joyful designs like flowers, hearts, and birds, all which often had symbolic meaning. The queen’s betrothal ring was made in the shape of a snake, which stood for love, fidelity, and eternity. The exuberant tone shifted after Prince Albert passed away in 1861, marking the beginning of the Grand Period. Black jewelry became de rigeur as the Queen and her subjects entered “mourning,” which at the time represented not just an emotional state, as we conceive of it today, but a specific manner of conduct and dress. She wore the color black for the remainder of her life, and we see lots of black onyx, enamel, jet, and gutta percha in the jewelry from this time. Finally, during the late Victorian period, which transitioned along with a rapidly changing world into the “Aesthetic Movement”, there was a return to organic and whimsical motifs: serpents, crescent moons, animals, and Japonaisserie designed for the more liberated “Gibson Girl”. During the second half of the 19th century, America entered the global jewelry market, with Tiffany and Co. leading the way. Lapidaries continued to perfect their techniques, and the old European cut emerged toward the end of the Victorian period. The discovery of rich diamond mines in South Africa made the colorless stones more accessible than ever before.
please note:Terms of Sale
Antiques can be returned unworn and in original condition within 10 days of delivery for an exchange or refund minus the cost of shipping. Once a piece has been altered, including ring re-sizing, it is FINAL SALE.
